Overview of the Historic City
Near the Moroccan city of Meknes, on a ridge overlooking lush farmland, stands the historic archaeological site of Volubilis. The city can trace its roots back into the depths of history. The Phoenicians, a seafaring culture originally from Lebanon, settled here in the third century BCE. They were not the first; around three hundred years earlier, local Amzigh tribes were living in the area. During my travels, this is one of the most interesting and complicated archaeological sites I have visited.
There are several reasons for my confusion about what happened in Volubilis during its long history. One main reason is that the area’s history is complicated. And as an American, I learn so little about Moroccan history. And while I have read some about the Romans and their conquests, mostly it has been about the big picture of Rome as a country. Not the history of individual parts of the empire.
History of Volubilis Before the Arabs
This part of North Africa is interesting. Volubilis was considered a Roman city, but it was a Romanized Amzigh city. In 25 BCE, it was known as the Mauritanian Kingdom and ruled by Juba II. Unless you are deep into pseudo-archaeology or the Ptolemy rulers of Egypt, you have never heard of him. He was a royal hostage raised in Rome. By the time he became king, he was a thoroughly Roman person. He married Cleopatra Selene II, who was the daughter of Cleopatra and Mark Anthony. Isn’t history fascinating?
By all accounts, the marriage was a success, and they were able rulers. The kingdom became very rich during Juba II’s reign, which lasted until 23 CE. His wife died many years before, in 5 BCE. He was succeeded by his only son, Ptolemy. In 40 CE, there was a revolt against Roman control, but it was successfully put down in 44CE. Rome was so pleased with the citizens and Ptolemy that they were all granted Roman citizenship, and a triumphal arch was built in the city.
The history of this fascinating place was not done yet. Rome held sway over Volubilis until a series of civil wars rocked the empire. In 280 CE, control of the city passed from the Romans to local inhabitants. They continued to build and decorate in the Roman style. Many of the famous mosaics of Volubilis date from after the Romans left.
History of Volubilis After the Arabs
Over time, the Awaraba, an Amazigh tribe, ruled the city, which had a large Jewish population. The center was abandoned, but life continued around the edges. In 787 (or 8 or 9), the Arabs, in the form of Moulay Idriss I from Saudi Arabia, were welcomed by the inhabitants. They converted to Islam. Except here there is disagreement. While the official guidebook gives this account. The website provides little detail, stating only that Arab coins were found in the city and date to the early 700s. They assume the people converted to Islam sometime around then. Wikipedia states the Arabs arrived in 708 and lived with the Amzigh in separate parts of the city. Everyone agrees that Moulay Idriss I arrived by 789 and founded the Idrisid dynasty, which traces its lineage back to the Prophet.
In 791, Moulay Idriss I was assassinated. His son Idris II followed him. Because of his age, he was born the year his father died. Idris II began his rule in 803, when he moved the capital from Volubilis to Fes. That led to the city’s decline. The monuments and buildings in the city became a quarry for building in the area. A devastating earthquake in 1755 leveled what remained of the city, and chased the few remaining residents out.
The French controlled Morocco as a protectorate from 1907, but had been involved with the country since their control over neighboring Algiers in 1830. French Archaeologists investigated Volubilis in 1887, but didn’t start formal excavations until 1912. The French continued to be involved even after Moroccan independence in 1955. After that, they worked with Moroccan officials. Work continues on the site.
Visiting the Archaeology Site of Volubilis
There is a photo gallery below the post, with captions explaining what you are looking at. For the best viewing, click the View on Google icon in the upper-left corner of the image.
The site is vast and includes the city of Volubilis itself, a new museum, and a small cafe. I was with a tour and had a local guide. I don’t know if you could go without a group if you could get a guide who spoke your language.
On my tour of Morocco, I felt there were places we visited that I wish we could have spent more time at or had a specialized guide for. Volubilis is definitely one of those places. I am a fan of visiting historical sites (no surprise there). I could spend a whole day just wandering the site; a good guidebook or guide would help immensely. Finally, we did not even visit the museum that recently opened. I would have liked to see that. Visiting the historical city of Volubilis is well worth the time and cost. Do not skip it if you are near Mekenes in Morocco.
This was one of several Overseas Adventure Travel tours I have taken. See my affiliates page for more information.
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While the second half of the book is strictly pseudo-archaeology, the first part, which is an accurate history of Juba II, makes the book worthwhile.
