Overview
Pamplona, the capital of the province of Navarre, is more than the running of the bulls. History, churches, historic buildings, and food shine in the city. With a population of nearly 200,000, it’s not big enough to overwhelm you, but large enough that you’re never bored. One evening I wandered to the Plaza del Casilo in the heart of Pamplona. I wanted to see the bar and cafe favored by the author Earnest Hemingway when he lived in the city.
As I approached the famous bandstand, I heard live music. As I got closer, I saw dozens of people dancing traditional dances. Dressed in classic outfits, some of the people performed with the three-piece band. Others just joined in the fun. Young and old circled the plaza as if they’d been dancing all the time. I don’t know when it started, but it kept going for thirty minutes after I arrived. Another time I was out around 9:00 pm (21:00) looking for something light to eat. After a huge lunch, I didn’t want a full meal.
Across the street from the church of Saint Nicolas, I found a Colombian empanada shop. I got into a conversation about Colombian food, US politics, my travels, and random subjects. I spent over a half hour with the owner. I returned another day for the food and conversation. Pamplona can surprise you in many ways.
A short history
The province of Navarre is in the Basque Country and on the Camino de Santiago. Like many cities in this part of Spain, Romans settled here and founded a city in the first century BCE. After Rome’s collapse, Germanic tribes moved in. The Visigoths ruled much of Spain from the third to the eighth century CE.
In 711, the Umayyad Caliphate, known historically as the Moors, invaded the Iberian Peninsula and displaced the Visigoths. Pamplona, along with the Basques, welcomed the Arabs. But sometime before 778, Pamplona allied with the Franks under Charlemagne. For some reason, he destroyed the city on his return across the Pyrenees. This led to the famous Battle of Roncesvalles, where the Basques overtook his army, destroing the rear guard and giving Charlemagne his worst military defeat.
After the city’s destruction, only a fort remained until the early ninth century. Bolstered by pilgrim traffic on the Way, Pamplona regained population. After the Reconquista, Spain became a chessboard where dynasties maneuvered armies and overthrew governments. Two in particular: the French Bourbons and the Habsburgs of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Spain’s current royal family is Bourbon.
Of course, much more happened in Spain, such as the growth of Spanish colonies in the Americas. Then came the Peninsular War, when Napoleon invaded Spain; the Carlist Civil Wars; and the Spanish Civil War, which put Franco in Power until 1975.
The running of the bulls
No discussion of Pamplona is complete without mentioning the Festival of San Fermin, when, since 1591, bulls, led by veteran steers, run down the streets from a corral to the bullfighting arena, a half mile away, where they are killed. Bullfighting is very controversial in Spain. It is enshrined in the constitution, but many people consider it animal cruelty. This article is not the place to argue; let the Spanish do that themselves.
We can separate the running of the bulls from bullfighting. The daily running of the bulls has a lot to it; I have a separate article on it. It is controlled mayhem, about a half mile long, that lasts three minutes or less. With veterans who have participated before and new runners, some with no idea what to do.
Conclusion
I liked Pamplona. To me, it is the perfect-sized city with history, culture, and a vibrant dining scene. And with Spanish people eating late, that turns into vibrant nightlife. I would love to return and spend more time in this amazing city.
