Overview
What better reason to visit Italy, especially Tuscany, than the food? In my ten days in Florence, I had two favorite places to eat. One was Trattoria Sergio Gozzi (my all-time favorite on this trip), across the street from
San Lorenzo.ย The other, Cipolla Rossa, was very good. In fact, the single best thing I ate on this trip was there. A third was Osteria de Peccatori, which was good, but I remember the people I met there.ย Great conversation. The last place I want to mention was a higher-end place, not someplace I would normally try. It was near my hotel, Auditore. I tried to include at least part of each restaurant’s menu in the image gallery below.
I could only include one Google map. The map is for Sergio Gozzi, my favorite on this trip.
Trattoria Gozzi
When traveling to Italy, a common rule is to avoid eating near tourist attractions. My favorite restaurant during a recent trip to Florence is a block from the Medici Palace and across the street from the Basilica of San Lorenzo. It broke the rule, or it was the exception that proved the rule. My tour guide for the Basilica told me the best place to eat was just across the street as we ended our tour. Trattoria Sergio Gozzi, housed in a narrow, unassuming building, opened at noon; I decided to give it a try. Around 11:30, people were already lined up to get in. These were not all tourists; from listening to them talk, at least half were Italians. Keeping with the low-key vibes, the inside is not fancy: several tables, some small for one or two and some big enough for the whole family.
After I sat, a waiter brought a copied, handwritten menu and a basket with a couple of slices of bread. I ordered a widely known soup/stew that every nonna has her own recipe for. Pasta Fagioli. Often spelled Fazoli in the US. A simple, creamy (from blended-up beans) pasta soup. With a slice or two of crusty bread, it was almost like heaven. Of course, there was no ice in the water (still for me). I ate at Gozi a few more times during my stay, trying different menu items; the food never disappointed.
Cipolla Rossa
Trattoria Gozzi was my go-to place for lunch; I sampled different places for dinner. I settled on Cipolla Rossa as my favorite place for dinner. The single best dish I ate during my stay in Florence, Tortellini in a mushroom cream sauce, came from here. Not on a main street or near any attraction, the patrons consisted of a mix of locals and tourists. Every meal was great, and the service was outstanding. My single best dish during the trip was Prosciutto tortellini in a Parmesan cream sauce, here at Cipolla Rossa.
A few others
Those two weren’t the only two restaurants I ate at. There was a mall cafeteria byย San Marco, and a fancy steakhouse,ย Auditore,ย near the Uffizi, where I ate Asparagus Risotto and Peposo, which became a favorite of mine. One spot, Osteria de Peccatori, I remember more for the conversation I had with a couple dining next to me. They lived in York, UK, telling me I needed to skip London and visit York. A truly entertaining conversation.
Conclusion
Trendy restaurants have their place in any city’s food scene. However, I’m old school. Give me traditional, local, family-owned-and-run restaurants over Michelin stars. The restaurants of Florence offer that, and great food you won’t soon forget.
